modern Ramona Diary, the record tourists kept of the sites of Old California and the book Ramona and Hollywood movies that renamed and transformed them. A mix of fantasy and memoir, the author SRD's tour turns surreal as he enters the myths of the Californios with the talking head of the Chicano folk hero Joaquin Murrieta. They race a self-styled Zorro to get the spurious Jewels of Ramona while the media is convinced SRD and Joaquin are the serial killer dubbed Two-Heads. Ultimately, SRD records his truth and recreates a reality where he may exist.