faces. It's sweltering in the summer and ice-bound in the winter. For every soaring skyscraper there's a Prairie-style property with a porch. Fine-dining establishments brush shoulders with classic American diners. It may be hundreds of miles from the ocean but Lake Michigan creates the illusion of sweeping seaside views. We've ridden the rattling L train around the Windy City in search of our favourite hotels, from luxury lodgings in the Loop to a family-run find in a former publishing house across the river. We've taste-tested restaurants serving dazzling dishes from around the world, as well as the odd joint offering cheesy slices of deepdish pizza. Join us as we explore the museums and galleries shaking up the art world, and the improv clubs making us laugh until we cry. Plus, more than a handful of intimate bars at which to end - or extend - the night. Chicago is a warm (in summer) and welcoming city that brings together the best of many metropolises in the US - from the sandy beaches of Los Angeles and the neighbourhood feel of San Francisco to the vibrant culture of New York - with a dash of that famous Midwestern hospitality. We're pulling into the station; hop on board.